Chestnuts: Lay the chestnuts on a cutting board with the flat side of the nut down. Using a sharp knife, score an X into the shell without cutting too far into the nut. Roasting over open coals is optimal; if that’s not doable, cook over a gas stove in a pan cut with holes so the flames gently touch the shells, or roast on a baking tray in an oven preheated to 425°F until the shells have pulled back from the meat, about 15–20 minutes. Remove nuts from the oven and wrap them in a kitchen towel for a few minutes to steam and cool. Peel away the shells before serving and enjoy.