What happens when chefs with Marin ties head south across the bridge? In the case of these three, they bring with them a fierce sense of community, creativity and commitment to local flavor.
We sat down with three North Bay culinary artists to discuss how their Marin roots show up in their San Francisco restaurants.
Josh Copeland, Chef & Owner, Camino Alto
When did you open Camino Alto?
We opened on 11/11/21 (November 11, 2021). My wife told me all of the “1s” make it special, but it was just a coincidence. Not exactly an ideal start — we had to wear masks, required proof of vaccination and a lot of people weren’t ready to get cozy again. But there were some of us who just wanted to feel the energy of others and be in a space that made them feel cared for as part of a community.
Do you have partners?
I had a list of people who believed in what I was doing (kinda), and were willing to invest, but once COVID hit, I lost confidence that a restaurant without a “big chef name” would succeed. So my wife Jessie and I decided to fund it ourselves. It wasn’t easy — we had to squeeze water from a turnip — but not having investors allowed us to focus on a more personal and authentic experience.
How did the idea to open Camino Alto come about?
It’s the culmination of a lot of things: knowing what I’m good at (and not good at), trying to live in alignment, dealing with my dad’s rapid onset dementia, and just caring more about community and the food system as each decade passes.
How do you commute?
I used to bike more — Camino Alto is actually named after the beautiful road I’d ride to work on. These days I mostly drive, but there’s few better feelings than riding across the Golden Gateway before the sun sets, after work.
What’s the most popular item on your menu?
Our ceviche with house-made tortilla chips — it kills it every night.
How long have you been in the restaurant business?
Before banking, I worked in restaurants for a few years. Long enough to not romanticize it. It’s a slog… and it’s amazing. I’ve never had more problems, and I’ve never been happier.
George Chen, Chef & Owner, China Live
When did you open China Live?
March 2017 — so nearly a decade ago!
Do you have partners?
Cindy (my wife) and I are the primary owners. We also have limited partners as investors.
How did the idea to open China Live come about?
China Live is really the evolution of my first restaurant, Betelnut, which opened in 1995. It’s a larger-scale version — an open market hall with multiple kitchens showcasing the ingredients and techniques of Greater Chinese cooking. Think of it like a Chinese Eataly. There weren’t many restaurants in the Bay Area representing the diversity of Chinese cuisine, and we wanted to change that with a space that’s a modern, fun and highly experimental dining/shopping experience.
How do you commute?
We drive electric vehicles (we use self-driving a lot!) from Tiburon into the city during off-hours to avoid traffic, which is fully back to pre-pandemic levels. Soon we’ll be commuting to Santa Clara since Asia Live at Valley Fair will be open by the end of the year.
What’s the most popular item on your menu?
Our Sheng Jian Bao — juicy, pan-fried dumplings cooked in giant paella-style pans. We’ve sold over five million of them. Our Peking Duck Sesame Biscuits are also a hit – we’ve sold over three million of these! We roast, carve and serve the duck in a sesame biscuit with house-made hoisin bean sauce and julienned cucumber.
How long have you been in the restaurant business?
Since college — I worked at The Mandarin under Madame Cecilia Chiang while studying at UC Berkeley. Since then, I’ve opened 17 restaurants here and in Shanghai. It’s been a lifetime.
Thomas McNaughton, Co-Executive Chef & Founding Partner, Flour + Water Hospitality Group
When did you open Flour + Water?
We opened the original Flour + Water — what we call the “OG” — in May 2009. We didn’t expect the impact it would have on the Mission or the broader SF food scene. What started as a casual neighborhood spot focused on Neapolitan-style pizza and a few pastas quickly turned into a pasta destination. We added a dedicated “dough room” and a pasta tasting menu that’s still a cornerstone of the experience today.
Do you have partners?
Yes. Our leadership team includes co-founder David Steele, culinary director Ryan Pollnow, and others who have grown within the company. We call it our “farm system”— most of our team has worked their way up through the ranks.
How did the idea to open Flour + Water come about?
It was simple: we wanted to create a restaurant for our community. A place that felt like coming over to a friend’s house for dinner. We played loud music, didn’t do uniforms and reimagined what “Cal-Ital” could be with a menu that showcased our distinct view of Italian cuisine through the lens of Northern California.
How do you commute?
I live in Tam Valley and usually drive in — it’s a pretty easy trip. I’m recovering from spinal surgery right now, but I love biking to the city when I’m able. Experiencing the region that way never gets old.
What’s the most popular item on your menu?
At Flour + Water, our taleggio scarpinocc is a forever favorite. We also always include a version of tortellini in brodo on the tasting menu, which is inspired by my time learning from Italian nonnas in Bologna.
How long have you been in the restaurant business?
Almost 30 years! I started working in restaurants as a teen in New Jersey, moved to the Bay Area in 2002, and opened Flour + Water at 25.
