Farmers Market Finds: Recipes That Showcase Marin’s Bounty

Ever wondered what to do with all the amazing produce you discover when browsing our bountiful local farmers’ markets? Our local food expert, Lynda Baslev, serves up recipes sure the showcase our county’s ingredients as well as delight the tastebuds.

Rhubarb and Berry Crisp

From late April to May, rosy rhubarb ushers in the spring season at the farmers market. The celery-like stalks are awash in vibrant hues of crimson, pink, red and green. Is it a fruit or vegetable? It’s a fair question due to the rhubarb’s inherent tartness. Botanically, rhubarb is classified as a vegetable, however it’s often put to culinary use as a fruit. The stalks are typically cooked. While the stalks can be eaten raw in small quantities, the leaves are poisonous and should be discarded. What is not questionable is rhubarb’s astringency, which may sound off-putting, but is, in fact, its key attribute. It lends a refreshing zing and vegetal note to sugary desserts, which helps to balance any cloying sweetness.

When choosing rhubarb, select firm, crisp stalks that are red and pink in color, with hints of green. Discard any leaves, which are toxic. To prepare, trim the ends and wash the stalks. Add rhubarb to fruit pies, crisps, jams, compotes and sauces. While strawberries are a classic fruit pairing, other sweet berries are a great addition.

Sweet-tart raspberries and mellow blackberries join rhubarb in this fruit crisp. Additional sweetness is gleaned from the nutty, crunchy topping, which is gluten-free. The recipe yields a generous amount of topping, so layer it on thickly. Alternatively, freeze any extras for up to one month for your next crisp.

Active Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: about 1 hour, plus cooling time
Serves 6

Ingredients

Topping:

• 3/4 cup almond flour
• 3/4 cup rolled oats (gluten-free or regular)
• 1/2 cup walnuts
• 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, chilled

Filling:

• 1 1/2 pounds rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
• 8 ounces fresh blackberries and/or raspberries
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon orange juice
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
• Pinch of kosher salt

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine all the topping ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to coarsely chop the walnuts. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

2. Place the rhubarb and the berries in a bowl. Sprinkle the sugar over and gently stir to combine. Whisk the lemon juice and cornstarch in a small bowl. Pour over the fruit, add the zest and gently stir to coat. Spread the fruit in an 8 by 8-inch (or similar size) baking dish (or divide the fruit between individual gratin dishes). Evenly spread the topping over the fruit.

3. Bake in the oven until the topping is golden brown, the rhubarb is soft and the juices are bubbling, about 40 minutes. (If the topping browns before the filling is fully cooked, then loosely cover with foil to prevent burning.) Remove and cool. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus

Springtime heralds a bounty of tender green asparagus spears at the farmer’s market. Nothing beats the sweet, grassy flavor of fresh asparagus, which peak in April and May. Not only are they delicious harbingers of the new season, green asparagus are a powerhouse of nutrients: naturally rich in potassium, folate and vitamins A, C, E and K. And they are low in calories, to boot. 

When choosing asparagus, select rigid (not floppy) stalks with dark, firm tips. To store, trim the ends and refrigerate upright in an inch of water to maintain freshness. When ready to cook, snap off the ends — the woody ends should naturally break off when the stalks are bent at their base. Thinner asparagus are more tender in flavor and require little time to cook. A quick blanch or a few minutes to steam is all that’s needed, whereas the thicker, more fibrous asparagus stalks take more time and are ideal for grilling and roasting, which will coax out their natural nutty sweetness. You can also eat asparagus raw. In which case, opt for thinner, more tender stalks, and enjoy as a crudité or shave the spears into salads.

This recipe embraces the simplicity of the asparagus stalk, with a mere three ingredients and minutes to prepare. You can prep them in advance, so they are ready to pop into the oven or on the grill when you want to serve. 

There are a few simple tips to ensure success:

You can certainly splurge and use luscious, supple prosciutto di Parma to wrap the spears. However, feel free to substitute a less expensive prosciutto-style ham. The key to these asparagus is to slightly dry out and crisp the prosciutto while roasting, and the nuance of a finer ham may be lost (along with the extra pennies you spend on it).

Choose asparagus of equal thickness to ensure even cooking time. Avoid thin asparagus, since they will cook very quickly, losing their brightness and firmness before the prosciutto is cooked. Medium-thick stalks are best. Once cooked, the asparagus should be tender but firm, not limp. 

Makes 12; serves about 4 as a light appetizer

Ingredients

• 12 medium-thick asparagus spears, about 1 pound
• 2 to 3 ounces prosciutto (at least 6 slices), halved lengthwise
• Extra-virgin olive oil

Optional garnishes:

• Finely grated lemon zest 
• Finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano 

Directions

1. Heat the oven to 400°F or prepare a grill for indirect cooking over medium heat.

2. Snap off the tough woody ends of the asparagus and neatly trim the stalks with a knife.

3. Place a piece of prosciutto on a work surface. Arrange a spear at the base of the prosciutto and tightly wrap the ham up around the spear, on the diagonal. Place on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment or on a grill pan and repeat with the remaining asparagus. Lightly brush the asparagus with oil.

4. Cook until the asparagus are tender but still firm, bright green in color, and the ham begins to dry and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven or grill and garnish with lemon zest or grated cheese, if desired. Serve warm.

Lemon Bars

Late winter offers up bushels of citrus at the farmers markets. It’s an embarrassment of riches with lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruit, pomelos and myriad hybrids vying for attention. They are worthy of notice: Citrus fruits are considered a superfood. They are naturally low in calories and rich in nutrients, including immunity-boosting vitamin C, as well as fiber, potassium, magnesium and various plant compounds which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Let these juicy, tangy fruits brighten your plate and boost your health in the cold weather season.

The infallible lemon shines in these zingy bars which promise to perk up your palate and uplift your mood (which is another contributor to good health). It’s no surprise that the key to a good lemon bar is an intensely lemony filling. It should pack a wallop of puckery tartness balanced by just enough sweetness without being cloying. For this task, rely on the Eureka lemon, the ubiquitous fruit readily found in our markets and gardens. (As much as we love its sweet and sunny cousin, the Meyer lemon, it lacks the cheek-sucking tartness that these lemon bars demand.) Eureka lemons have the requisite zing for the zesty curd that slathers the buttery shortbread base. A smidge of sea salt is the final flourish, which deftly enhances the lemon flavor and tames any sugary excess.

Makes 16 (2-inch) square bars

Ingredients

Crust:

Filling:

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan, then line the pan with parchment.

2. Combine the shortbread ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix until the dough is lumpy and begins to stick together. Dump the dough into the prepared pan and evenly press the dough to cover the bottom of the pan.

3. Bake the crust until it just begins to turn golden, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven, but do not turn off the oven heat.

4. Whisk the filling ingredients together in a large bowl until blended. Pour the filling over the crust. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the filling is set but not coloring, about 25 minutes. Remove and cool completely on a rack.

5. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and lightly sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Cut into bars. Store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Balsamic Braised Radicchio

Chicories are our winter warriors. Often called winter greens, chicories are a family of hardy leafy vegetables, which include radicchio, endive, frisée, puntarella and escarole. The term “greens” can be misleading, since chicories are distinguished by a colorful range of magentas and pinks, ice-whites and pale-yellows, which they flamboyantly display on their frilly, frizzy and spiky leaves. 

Chicory leaves are notoriously bitter. When they are in season, they are also crisp, juicy, nutty and mildly sweet which provides a refreshing contrast in flavor. They are healthy to boot, too. Fiber-rich and loaded with vitamins C, B and K and nutrients such as iron, zinc, copper and potassium, chicories are cold weather warriors that will fight to keep you healthy throughout the winter season. 

When preparing chicories, it’s best to lean into their robust qualities, rather than pretend they are a substitute for mild-mannered lettuce. Team them up with equally strong flavors in salads: sweet and sharp dressings, astringent citrus, smoky bacon, fruit and nuts. Don’t be shy about using a pinch or two of sugar, which will reign in their natural bitterness. Thanks to their sturdiness, chicories are also great for braising, which is an appealing (and warm) way to get your veggies in the dead of winter. 

Serves 4 to 5 as a side dish

Ingredients

• 4 to 5 firm heads of radicchio, medium to large sized
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3 to 4 thyme sprigs, plus fresh leaves for garnish
• Kosher salt 
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
• Juice of 1/2 orange
• Zest of 1/2 orange, plus more for garnish
• 3 to 4 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

Directions

1. Halve the radicchios top to stem. Cut out the white stem and core with a paring knife, then cut each half into 2 to 3 wedges.  

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Arrange the wedges snugly in the skillet, cut side down. Cook until they take on color, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, turn the wedges so that the other cut side is down in the skillet, and cook about 2 minutes more.

3. Nestle the thyme sprigs between the wedges and season evenly with salt and black pepper. Drizzle the balsamic vinegar over the radicchio. Squeeze the orange juice and sprinkle the zest over the radicchio, then sprinkle the brown sugar over the wedges.

4. Partially cover the skillet and simmer over medium heat until the radicchio is crisp-tender when pierced with a knife through the base, 12 to 15 minutes, carefully turning the wedges once or twice. Remove the cover and continue to simmer until the radicchio is soft and wilted, 5 to 7 minutes more, turning once or twice.

5. Using tongs, transfer the radicchio to a serving dish, gently squeezing any excess liquid back into the skillet. Continue to simmer the braising liquid until reduced to a syrupy consistency, 1 to 2 minutes. (Watch carefully as it will quickly reduce.) 

6. Drizzle the syrup over the radicchio. Add more salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with fresh thyme leaves and orange zest. Serve warm.

A Celery Root Recipe

Looks can be deceiving. Celery root is hard to miss at the farmers market. Nestled among the season’s decorative squash, leafy kales and plump sprouts, it’s the gnarly pockmarked orb, wrapped in hairy, crooked roots with a mop of unruly leafy stalks sprouting from its craggy bulb. 

Don’t let the knobby, cartoonish exterior put you off. Celery root — or celeriac — is the dark horse of tubers with a confounding name and myriad uses. While related to celery, it is not the root of the celery stalk plant. And while it’s called a root, it’s technically a nutrient-dense tuber, which happens to be rich in B, C and K vitamins, plus potassium, phosphorus, iron, calcium and manganese. Not bad for a bumpy bulb. 

When the earthen-caked skin is cut away, a milky white interior is revealed. Mildly fragrant with celery, it can be eaten raw, shredded in salads and slaws, or even quick pickled. When cooked, its flavor is smooth, mellow and slightly sweet, especially when roasted. It adds subtle depth and dimension to mashes, gratins and stews and can nobly stand alone in a purée or creamy soup.

When buying celery root, choose a firm, medium-sized root, no larger than a grapefruit, as very large roots may be woody. Trim any green stalks and leaves and store unpeeled in the refrigerator for up to three weeks. To prepare, carefully cut away the mottled exterior to reveal the white bulb. Once cut, the flesh will discolor when exposed to air, so use right away or submerge in cool lemon water until use.

Celery Root Purée 

Makes 1 1/2 to 2 cups

Serves 2 to 4 as a side dish

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 pounds celery root, stalks trimmed
• 4 whole peeled garlic cloves, smashed but intact
• 2 to 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
• Pinch of ground nutmeg 

Directions

1. Peel the celery roots, removing any trace of the outer skin. Chop in 1/2-inch pieces and place in a pot. Add the stock, garlic and thyme. There should be enough liquid to cover the celery root; add more if needed. Bring to a boil, then cover the pot and simmer over medium-low heat until the celery root is very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. If the pan begins to dry out, add more stock or water to prevent scorching. Discard the thyme sprigs.

2. With a slotted spoon, transfer the celery root to the bowl of a food processor. Add the cream, butter, salt and nutmeg and process until smooth. If too thick, add some of the cooking liquid and process to your desired consistency. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if desired. 

Serve warm.

Strawberry Eton Mess

You say summer, we say strawberries. Nothing quite captures the essence of the summer season like fresh strawberries at the farmers market. When at their peak, sweet, plump strawberries fill the market tables, encouraging indulgence. Go ahead and grab a carton (or two or three, since you’ll likely polish off a box on your way home). There’s no need for restraint. 

Strawberries are nature’s candy. Whether eaten straight-up, blended into smoothies or baked into desserts, farm-fresh strawberries are the essence of seasonal eating, and they are healthy, to boot. Not only are they naturally low in calories, strawberries are packed with nutrients, including vitamin C, potassium, manganese and folate. 

Set aside a pint of the berries to make this dessert. An Eton Mess is a British dessert that embraces the strawberry and lets it shine. It’s essentially a deconstructed pavlova: a mishmash of whipped cream and crushed meringue enfolding juicy berries, which is dolloped into a glass or bowl to serve. It’s easy and fun to make — you do get to smash things, after all — and precision is not involved. 

Note that you can make this dessert in advance of serving, but for best results assemble shortly before serving to prevent the meringues from becoming too soggy. For the meringues, feel free to use store-bought vanilla meringues, which can be found in well-stocked markets and bakeries.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 12 ounces fresh strawberries
• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus more for garnish
• 1 1/2 cups chilled heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons sifted confectioner’s sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 1/2 cups coarsely crumbled vanilla meringues, plus more for sprinkling 

Directions

1. Set aside 3 unblemished strawberries and cut in half. Hull and quarter the remaining berries. Place half of the strawberries in a bowl and add the 1 tablespoon granulated sugar. Gently press with a fork to coarsely mash. Add the remaining berries and the lemon zest and stir to combine.

2. Combine the cream, confectioner’s sugar and vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat until soft peaks form. Add the strawberries and about 2/3 of the meringues to the cream and gently fold into the cream, leaving streaks of berries visible. 

3. Spoon into individual serving glasses or small bowls. Sprinkle additional crushed meringues over the top. Garnish with a half strawberry and additional lemon zest.