After coming down the mountain from the PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn in Lake Tahoe, chef Rick Edge picked up the spatula at Mill Valley’s Balboa Cafe, where he’s been since May 2011. Inspired by green garlic’s peak season in April, he developed this recipe in time for Earth Day. Edge uses sustainable and hormone-free sausage and breakfast hams from Caggiano Company in Petaluma, also available in local retail markets. The biggest challenge of this recipe? “Making the hollandaise,” says Edge. “The trick is to not add the butter too fast and to control the temperature of the eggs. If the eggs get too hot they can scramble, and if the butter is added too fast the sauce will break.” Edge suggests reading through the whole recipe first before starting. “This way you have an idea of what needs to be done and there won’t be any surprises.”
Green Eggs and Ham
|8 large eggs|
|4 tablespoons clarified unsalted butter|
|4 slices Caggiano artisan ham (3–4 ounces each)|
|8 ounces green garlic hollandaise (recipe follows)|
|4 servings home-style breakfast potatoes (recipe follows)|
For the green garlic hollandaise:
For the home-style breakfast potatoes:
|1/2 pound green garlic tops, cut||6 medium unpeeled large red potatoes, diced in 1/2-inch cubes|
|1/2 inch thick||2 tablespoons salt (for blanching water)|
|1 tablespoon canola oil||2 tablespoons canola oil|
|8 ounces vegetable broth||Salt and pepper for seasoning|
|4 egg yolks||1 red onion, diced|
|3/4 cup clarified unsalted butter, melted||3 cloves garlic, minced|
|Dash of Tabasco||1 tablespoon paprika|
|1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice||1/2 tablespoon ground cumin|
|Salt and pepper to taste||1/4 tablespoon ground coriander|
|1/2 tablespoon ground black pepper|
|1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley|
|2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives|
- Sear ham in a cast-iron skillet until caramelized and heated through and set aside.
- Heat a small nonstick fry pan over medium heat and add the clarified butter.
- Crack two eggs into the pan, cook eggs until the whites start to set, then jiggle the pan to make sure eggs are not sticking.
- Flip eggs and cook for about 10 to 15 seconds.*
Place eggs on a plate, garnish with green garlic hollandaise and serve with ham and home-style breakfast potatoes.
*This process will have to be repeated unless multiple
To make the green garlic hollandaise:
- In a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, cook the green garlic in the canola oil until the color starts to turn.
- Add the vegetable broth and bring the liquid to a boil until liquid is reduced by half.
- Transfer green garlic and liquid to the bowl of a blender and blend on high until smoothly pureed.
- Over a double boiler* whisk the egg yolks along with the green garlic puree until the eggs have doubled in volume.
- Being careful not to let the eggs get too hot, slowly drizzle the melted butter into the eggs while continuing to whisk.
- Once all the butter is incorporated into the eggs and the sauce has doubled in volume, remove from the heat and whisk in the Tabasco, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Cover sauce and place in a warm spot until ready to use.
*If you do not have a double boiler, you may whisk the eggs in a stainless steel bowl over a sauce pot containing simmering water. Be sure not to let the bottom of the bowl touch the water or the eggs will get too hot.
To make the home-style breakfast potatoes:
- Place potatoes in a large pot, cover with salted cold water and bring to a boil.
- Cook until tender but still slightly firm, about eight minutes.
- Drain the potatoes, allowing them to cool and dry.
- In a large skillet, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat.
- Add the potatoes and let them sear for two minutes or until they start to color on the bottom.
- Season the potatoes with salt and pepper.
- Stir the potatoes to allow them to brown as evenly as possible.
- Once potatoes are evenly browned and crispy, add the red onion and minced garlic, and stir mixture for about a minute to allow the onion and garlic to perfume the potatoes.
- Add the spices and herbs, season again with salt and pepper and set aside.
Mimi Towle has been the editor of Marin Magazine for over a decade. She lived with her family in Sycamore Park and Strawberry and thoroughly enjoyed raising two daughters in the mayhem of Marin’s youth sports; soccer, swim, volleyball, ballet, hip hop, gymnastics and many many hours spent at Miwok Stables. Her community involvements include volunteering at her daughter’s schools, coaching soccer and volleyball (glorified snack mom), being on the board of both Richardson Bay Audubon Center. Currently residing on a floating home in Sausalito, she enjoys all water activity, including learning how to steer a 6-person canoe for the Tamalpais Outrigger Canoe Club. Born and raised in Hawaii, her fondness for the islands has on occasion made its way into the pages of the magazine.